Style Icon’s The Fashion Word: MFW SS16: Day 4
Daizy Shely’s summer collection 2016 introduced us to her colourful world of contemporary fashion. It was such a delight to watch which felt like you were in a candy store or fair ground as the runway looked so colourful and full of life. Shely embraced a multitude of styles such as shorts, A-line mini dresses, pencil skirts and jackets in glittery fabrics. There was definitely an Eighties’ disco feel to the collection. It is clear that Daizy Shely has in mind a woman who is proud to show her strong personality through a unique sense of style. Further to this, there was a strong balance between feminine looks and more masculine elements such is a classic men’s shirt paired with a transparent maxi skirt in shimmering organza. Shely cleverly plays with geometric shapes on a water-coloured print decorating a silk organza skirt. This collection was vibrant with a fur scarf, colourful cowboy boots as well as shoes adorning a fur trim worn by the models. Shely is definitely one designer to watch especially as Giorgio Armani sponsored the talented designer to showcase her collection in the Armani theatre via Bergognone.
Antonio Marras is like an artist who transforms his artistic visions into real visual collages. From the set design with a Moroccan feel to ensembles that were rich in design, his spring summer 2016 collection provided us with a glimpse of Marras’ source of inspiration- Sergei Iosifovic Parajanov, an American director and artist whose work- including collages- Marras found in a 2007 exhibition in Paris called Le Magnifique. According to Marras, “We need excess, eccentricity against the cliche, banality, uniformity” and this is exactly what was delivered through his spring summer collection. There was a clean execution of simple shapes in ornate prints, tops and dresses with eclectic ornamentation, an earthy-toned colour palette contrasted with metallic gold. There was something very regal about this collection which conjured a rich nostalgia. The show ended with a finale of models dressed in white which depicted elements of romance. Marras is a creative genius in that he has the ability to make life experiences look and feel like you are living in a dream.
“The only acceptable sharp barbs are the ones on a cactus” Fabio Sasso and Juan Caro – creative directors of Leitmotiv. Their spring summer collection 2016 is very much inspired by the natural elements where nature blossomed in a fantasy dimension. Jackets, and pencil skirts were the dominating shapes with cactus prints and colourful graffiti-like artistry. Leitmotiv is known for its “printology” and “embroiderology” where full yarn and three-dimensional techniques were used to produce cactuses on which pansies flower. There was an intricate mash-up of denim, 3D mesh, laminated yarns, silk and stretch mikado. The colour palette varied from urban grey to the most vivid shades of fuchsia, sky blue, yellow and green. Overall, a youthful collection which featured both male and female models.
The Ermanno Scervino spring summer 2016 collection oozed femininity using soft organza and demure shapes coupled with a more masculine silhouette in the form of tuxedo dustcoats and “safari” style jumpsuits. There was an array of dresses from slip versions to asymmetric mini styles that glide on the body. There was also a strong balance between androgynous ensembles and soft, sensual pieces. The accessories included embroidered Moroccan slippers, platforms and sandals in neutral tones. Scervino has kept to his signature sharp tailoring. However, there was a sporty element to the collection with funky elements in the guise of a pink, fur jacket which looked very cool with a jumpsuit. The lazer-cut three-quarter length coat complimented a nude playsuit. A classic collection with edge but still in keeping with Scervino’s sophisticated outlook on fashion. The colour palette was muted with a soft pink, mint green and nude colours.
Miriam and Piero Cividini’s collection was characterised by knitted sweaters and bra tops; their signature looks. Almost every outfit was layered with a white shirt which tended to break-up the strong colour palette of brown and black. What was particularly evident was the designers’ use of geometric motifs which gave their collection an Eighties, Japanese feel. There was a creative mash-up of mainly neutrals and earthy tones which kept the tone and mood of the runway quite subdued and effortlessly subtle. This collection is definitely for the quietly confident lady who likes contemporary fashion with a twist from the Sixties or Eighties but overall likes simple silhouettes and good quality knitwear which can be layered over trousers or dresses.
Dean and Dan Caten have always been known to put on a spectacular show from set design, to ensembles that truly reflect their vision of innovative high-glam fashion. This season was rather serene captivating a techno-surfer theme for spring. For the record, both Dean and Dan love to surf hence the theme of their collection. There was a striking array of acid colours, tropical prints and scuba fabrics screaming “let’s have fun with fashion” The show was pretty upbeat featuring a video wall which became pretty hypnotic if you looked at it long enough as it showcased psychedelic imagery. Some beautiful looks dominated the catwalk including multi-coloured embellished dresses, funky cropped trousers and tattoo inspired leggings which gave some of the outfits a bit more edge. The colour palette was strong and complimented the theme of surfing with rich sea-blue tones, green, pink and yellow. Slouchy black pants, skinny tie-dye jeans and sequinned jackets were among the prominent items. Overall, a strong collection which makes us want to look glamorous on the beach.
The Elisabetta Franchi woman of the spring summer 2016 season combines a taste for graphic and animal prints. Monochrome is definitely making a comeback which has remained a classic trend. The geometric aesthetic in the collection was expressed through black-cream combinations in tops, dresses and the lapel of jackets. Elegant stripes were incorporated to highlight elements of class and sophistication. What was evident throughout the collection was metallic embroideries, and high-waisted hot pants combined with crop tops and micro jackets which looked seductive. In terms of accessories, bucket bags were modelled with fringes to complete the runway looks. Next season, we will see lacy knee-high sandals and open toe ankle boots with medium heels. The colour palette consisted of earthy shades of tobacco, powerful black combined with a very refined cream. Overall, Elisabetta Franchi’s collection depicts a strong sensuality ideal for the lady with a strong sense of style and personality.
Written by Natalie Robinson | Photography by Norman Peltier & Indigital
