Style Icon’s The Fashion Word: Day Six of MFW
Angelo Marani FW16
Angelo Marani was one of my favourite shows during Milan Fashion Week FW16. The collection was fuelled with a youthful outlook on fashion. Various styles including A-Line silhouettes graced the runway with attention to cut-out detail, floral prints and animal motives adorned on tops. I loved the combination of textures and different fabrics so as to bring together classic fashion and rock ‘n’ roll elements such as the ensemble featuring the blue sequin skirt worn with a leather waistcoat – one of my favourite looks. Laser cut detail, and lace will never date just like the bohemian style which was a dominant theme throughout the collection. Overall, Angelo Marani has a somewhat universal style with international appeal.
Arthur Arbesser FW16
Arthur Arbesser’s main source of inspiration was taken from artist/painter Michael Borremans (Belgian, 1963). Borreman is known for capturing small details and common objects in random moments which are then re-contextualised to carry new meaning. Arthur Arbesser plays close attention to voluminous styles – aprons, wide skirts were reworked via his usage of unconventional materials and prints. “The entire collection emanates a collegial style” with references to the 1990s. The theme of the collection was androgynous in essence with a minimalistic feel. Sharp tailoring stood out with a classic look. The outerwear was made of Austrian “Loden” while other fabrics came from all over Italy: Golden silk, deep yellow velvet, glittering fabrics and various checkered fabrics dominated the colour/style palette. Overall, his collection indeed “radiates a pure, yet sensual appeal of modernity”
Vivetta FW16
Another collection inspired by a painter, Vivetta took her inspiration from Erte with the backdrop resembling the art deco style in the 1920s-1930s in Paris. The Vivetta collection had a surrealist style about it. There was also a mix of elements taken from Russian culture and oriental themes – outerwear adorned with flowers, hummingbirds and branches as well as ancient kimono prints and gowns from the 1920s. The military theme also had a dominant role on the runway with dresses with military inspired toggles. Small attention to detail – collars, poplin shirts, leather boots, velvet trousers to skirts decorated with flower bouquets – became the collection’s signature leitmotivs. The lengths and shapes of the clothes echoed the 1970s era; mini and midi length skirts prevailed. I loved the combination of fabrics from wool for the collection’s outerwear pieces, to lighter ethereal organza and silk tulle whose ruffles adorned the collars and cuffs of dresses. The colour palette was strong with hues of black, light blue to deep red as well as shades of pink, white and racing green. Such a stunning collection. Can’t wait to see what Vivetta has in store for us next season.
San Andres Milano FW16
“Mujer Mazahua” was the name of San Andres Milano’s FW16 collection with much of his inspiration taken from the Mexican women from the community of Mazahua. San Andres Milano always plays homage to intense and iconographic colours. The dresses were made of cady and adorned vibrant prints and embroidered with Swarovski crystals. The “Mujer Mazahua” is enriched with a feast of colours typically embracing a community full of life and an energetic spirit within the Mexican culture. The colour palette showcased strong hues of fuchsia pink, electric blue, emerald green and bright red. I loved the hints of metallic silver and gold which stood out against the geometric design. There were a few must-haves such as the coat made from a mix of wool and mohair. There were also some amazing accessories such as earrings cleverly crafted with Swarovski crystals. There was a somewhat authentic craftsmanship on display during the San Andres Milano show.
Lucio Vanotti FW16
“New Order” – Lucio Vanotti’s FW16 collection brought a somewhat surreal comfort to us on the runway through the sounds of Igor Muroni. The set design was a little abstract with meaning to emphasis the story behind the collection. Vanotti took the military world as his main backdrop but through his use of minimal fashion design juxtaposed the severe mood of the military trend against a world of purity. “the uniform – an idea of functional, modular dress – became an act of soft rebellion” There were many vertical silhouettes and horizontal stripes running through jackets, vests, pants and shirts. Asymmetrical hemlines gave movement to long waist coats, and military blankets which turned into tunics. Tailored suits, pinstripe tracksuits, pajama suits and bathrobe coats stood out which you rarely see on the runway. Accessories were unique in design – boots with slipper soles will be on trend. The colour palette was soft with hues of white, black, navy blue and earthy khaki tones and there was consistent use of wool, cotton, fleece and corduroy materials. A minimalistic collection which spoke volumes.
Piccione.Piccione FW16
Piccione.Piccione was the grand finale show of Milan Fashion Week! What a beautiful way to end MFW! This collection was full of energy in terms of vibrant colours, print and design. Silhouettes were classic with full length dresses, midi and mini-length dresses gracing the runway. This collection is definitely for the woman who is confident and not afraid to stand out in style. I also loved the fur gilets in black and pink, and the white and black jackets. Layers of fabrics, and textures complimented one another with collared shirts worn underneath tailored and double-breasted jackets. Once again, there was a strong focus on masculine and feminine looks – floaty, cute baby doll dresses worked against more androgynous looks in the form of long, classic coats and a sportswear look. The colour palette was rich in fuchsia pink, red, white and black. Overall, Milan Fashion Week ended in a blast of colour and positive energy. Thank you for having me Cameramoda Until next time, let’s continue to inspire and be inspired.
Written by Natalie Robinson aka @styleiconnat | Images from Pinterest – Imaxtree.com via cameramoda
