Style Icon’s The Fashion Word: Day Four of MFW
Leitmotiv FW16 felt like a wonderful walk in a magical woods! The theme of the collection was a true depiction of this hence the name of the show ‘Into The Woods’ The colour palette was strong – showcasing fuchsia pink, blue and red as a striking colour combination and bright florals. Leitmotiv FW16 has so much feminine appeal. It is youthful but yet has a somewhat dynamic appeal that seems to cater for men and women of all ages. There is something for everyone – classic styles, feminine details i.e. ruffles, tulle skirts, shift dresses and suits with three-quarter length trousers all of which can suit the girl next door, the chic girl about town or fashionable traveller to the sophisticated lady who really likes to dress up loud and confidently during the evening! Overall, Leitmotiv always leaves you feeling energetic with a happy vibe at the end of their show.
Ermanno Scervino FW16
‘The Mosaic Woman’ is the name of Ermanno Scervino’s Fall/Winter 16/17 collection. Always exciting to watch as you kind of know what to expect without fully knowing how the classic signature look of the collection will be executed. This is the manipulative element of surprise I like that captivates your attention and then teases it with fear of the unknown. What Ermanno Scervino does very well is express an ‘aesthetic that looks at the world of Arts.’ I found that most FW16 collections drew their inspiration from the work of artists. Both masculine and feminine elements are dominant throughout the collection as a way of enhancing the feminine beauty of a woman’s style. References to the mosaics are embedded into coats and masculine suits with a colour palette of gold metallic shades, silver and bronze. Impressionist art also comes into play as strokes of colour/non-colour create three-dimensional movement on dresses and tops. Look out for some key looks – an elegant rendition of Victorian Gothic, attention to the waistline by adding a belt to your ensemble, multicolour fur finishing on collars and lapels and the fox helmet (A Must-have).
Cividini FW16
What I love about the Cividini collection is their playful approach to layering different fabrics which creates an ensemble with more visual impact. The styling works in a confusing way that fits the style of the collection. Minimal and imperfect is the FW16 concept – a dual effect where the rigor of the design is intertwined with the imperfection of the small details i.e. pressed creases, small checks, contrasting floral pattens. Overall, minimal is the design of the pieces with an earthy colour palette comprising of metallic bronze, khaki, and brown. Fabrics were rich in cashmere, and velvet. This collection is for the lady who loves quality fabrics in more toned-down styles of clothing.
Gabriele Colangelo FW16
This collection is a tribute to the tradition of fur encapsulating manual techniques to cutting-edge technology. I haven’t seen so much beautiful fur on a runway – SAGA FURS were laser-cut and stretched. Murmaski albino, fawnlight fox and sheepskin were depicted in a wavy geometry creating a three-dimensional look. There were mosaic influences in silver fox which was cut into small squares and placed on the back of a coat in wool cloth. The silhouette was vertical with trousers in men’s wool alternating with flowing skirts with an asymmetrical hem and dresses in silk twill. Other strong looks were patent leather in blue and brown and voluminous knitwear. A stunning collection for anybody who loves fur in the highest quality.
Aquilano.Rimondi FW16
“Demure and Classic” spring to mind when I think back to the Aquilano.Rimondi collection of FW16. For next season, I have seen various reinterpretations of feminine beauty and romanticism which echoes sensual qualities in essence. A.R explore a more refreshed perception of femininity with a strong emphasis on the brand’s DNA; Italian craftsmanship captured in tailored double-breast jackets and coats. Sleeveless dresses, the sheer panels and cut-out details enhanced their new perception of sensuality. The FW16 BAG-A.Rs showcased clean lines and shapes made in exclusive Italian leather. The colour palette was neutral with shades of white and nudes, midnight blue, grey and black. The casual look of the collection was emphasised by sporty jersey tops and loosely fitted trousers as well as soft footwear that wrapped around the legs or in the form of loafers on steel heels – pure innovation.
Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini FW16
One of my favourite collections of FW16, Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini brought sensual quality in the form of high quality fabrics, rich colour combinations and innovative styles to the Milan runway. Key trends to look for are patent leather in red to create a bold statement, monochrome pinstripe and lace in black and red. A rare look that hasn’t been done before is lace trousers worn over black shorts, Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini showcased this as a completely new trend if you wish to interpret the look in this way! Femininity is at the root of the collection with a fresh colour palette of nude, black, and white juxtaposed against stronger tones of berry red. Key accessories made a bold statement on the runway in the form of knee-high boots to accompany floaty dresses – a combination of strong and sweet looks which depicts the lady with a strong personality who also has a soft spot for certain things. A truly intricate collection that defines the beauty of a woman as sensual, confident and dominant.
Ports 1961 FW16
Ports 1961 gave us innovative fashion to the core. There was a strong sense of ownership over structure in the form of masculine and feminine styles. Loosely fitted trouser suits layered with additional fabric dominated the runway as well as beautiful light-weight dresses. There was more emphasis on attention to detail, voluminous styles and skirts with asymmetrical hemlines. Ports 1961 gives us a glimpse of directional fashion which you don’t tend to see much of during Milan Fashion Week. A classic jumper dress and tailored suit made striking appearances on the runway but what appeared more captivating were tassels featured on three-quarter length cocoon-shaped coats and trousers. Next season, look out for more androgynous looks which once again highlights the pathway connecting feminine and masculine looks that seem to be rivalling one another at the moment.
Written by Natalie Robinson aka @styleiconnat | Images from Pinterest – Imaxtree.com via cameramoda
