Style Icon's The Fashion Word: Milan Fashion Week Day 5

Alberto Zambelli FW16

FW16 trends seem stronger than ever before with contrasting themes creating complimentary opposites – masculine vs feminine, romantic vs military, contemporary vs ‘oldskool’ classic. Alberto Zambelli FW16 offers us a mash-up of such trends against a back drop of metallic gold, black and fossil white. His collection was mainly inspired by military references. Strong prints were a major feature of the collection – Mosaics were made of glass tesserae. Men’s tweed was matched with pop prints. Voluminous shapes are a major trend – oversized coats in alpaca complimented vertical silhouettes made of corduroy and nude tulle. You’ll see more tunic dresses, oversized tops/blouses and midi skirts next season. Alberto Zambelli really does play with contrasting themes hence his notion of “The Woman in Gold during the ’40s in Vienna meets Copenhagen in the ’20s and The Danish Girl”

Alberto Zambelli FW16 MFW

Richmond FW16

Formally known as John Richmond, the brand is now called ‘Richmond’ I noticed a major shift in the creative direction of Richmond which is a British brand of origin. Despite a more glamorous feel to the collection which featured colourful fur and prints, there was still a strong sense of the brands rock ‘n’ roll heritage; signature style, in the form of biker jackets, studded knee-high boots and prints referencing a carefree spirit. On display was an array of vivid colours such as ruby red, emerald green especially, sapphire blue in contrast with black and metallic gold and silver. Overall, Richmond is moving into a new direction of traditional Italian glamour as opposed to a more raw form of British fashion.

Richmond FW16 MFW

Laura Biagiotti FW16

I always find Laura Biagiotti fascinating to watch. The show venue never changes and she somehow always remains true to her identity making her show a must-see during Milan Fashion Week. Although the FW16 Laura Biagiotti collection was very different to last season, the brand’s DNA is rich in Italian heritage making it a timeless expression of Italian culture. Milan Fashion Week just wouldn’t have the same traditional feel without Laura Biagiotti. Next season, once again, will unify masculine versus feminine ideologies. The FW16 collection of Laura Biagiotti focuses on an ideogram of two cultures both innovative and vibrant in style. The main references are Chinese and Italian culture combined in a way that represent Laura Biagiotti’s journey in fashion. The cashmere journey began in China, where Laura, defined by the New York Times “the Queen of cashmere”, emphasises textures with embossed inserts, cashmere jacquard woven compositions, sweaters in mohair, mini dresses and overcoats adorned with romantic floral details. Voluminous shapes were strong on the runway with oversized sweaters decorated with gold studs. Once again there were strong references to Chinese culture with motifs of the imperial dragons, white tigers, butterflies and water lilies. Silk gowns featured the empress-neck collar. Overall, this collection was so inspiring and a true representation of Yin (feminine energy) and Yang (masculine energy).

Laura Biagiotti FW16 MFW

Au Jour Le Jour FW16

Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez once again put on a show spectacle with references to our five senses: touch, taste, smell, hearing and sight which were described “through elements that define a new concept of embellishment” Their collection was inspired by puzzles and their graphics. Organza macro embroideries adorned tops and skirts while quirky logo tags and playful imagery featured on some of the outfits echoed the ’90s sportswear trend. The silhouette was vertical with clean shapes in contrast to more masculine looks. Various fabrics dominated the runway such as felt and check wool mixed with tulle, organza and intarsia furs. Faux-fur coats and dresses were embellished with sequins. The colour palette was neutral with strong hues of grey, red, fuchsia and black. The accessories were also inspired by the ’90s with sandals customised with charms and fringed loafers.